Tuesday, August 24, 2010

the gentleman's edition

welcome to my favorite mental past-time.
how I think about style as both highly functional and personal might surprise many who might view style/my view on style as varying blends of whimsical, indulgent, and entertaining.  I absolutely believe in friends looking their best and spend a lot of time thinking about what works/what doesn’t.

while I paid far more attention to men's apparel while spoiled by the banking set pre-Kellogg, elegant French cuffs/whimsical links, flawlessly tasteful shirt/tie pairings, finest Italian wool pinstripes, luxurious shoe collections polished to perfection...
those years helped coin a personal motto - you'll work like a million bucks if you feel like a million bucks.

during Kellogg, my sense/palate has notably pared, relinquishing sensation for sensibility.
the below piece sent to a friend provides a glimpse into how style - local and personal - should serve its wearer. 
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Fit.
Personality.
Texture.

If a piece does not add to one of the above, it’s not doing its job. 

The wardrobe is your visual resume, every piece should earn its real estate.


Essentials
  1. Tees - casual can be a statement. Comfort can still be clean, fresh, interesting. Fitted tees only
  2. Jackets – good outerwear is worth investing in; they last and they’re almost always the first impression you’re making in the fall-winter. They tie an outfit together and provide a statement of their own.
    1. Smart wool coat – navy or dark gray, black if you must
    2. Smart trench – try double-breasted to test if you like
    3. Track jacket/hoodie – good standbys to have
    4. Casual street jacket – a distressed khaki grey with some hardware (buttons/zip/buckle etc)
  3. Blazer – have at least two
Fit
  1. No sloppy tees - Ralph Lauren, BR, J. Crew all offer slim cut collections
  2. No roomy jeans – create a clean silhouette. Not Euro-tight, but semi-fitted.
  3. No cargoes; no cuffs on pants (shortens)
Color
  1. Blues/purples (all range – light to dark) are great on you, add reds maybe orange, some light/pear green, kelly green (grass).
  2. Black is a bit severe on you. Best suits for you are dark gray, light grey, deep navy
  3. Denim: no light jeans, medium-rinse fine for daytime, dark wash preferable
Shoes
  1. Street sneakers are a must: Puma, Converse, Adidas
  2. Dress shoes: Kenneth Cole offers wearable designs. Keep them polished. Toss scuffed pairs.
  3. Flip flops/sandals – have a few good pairs, sturdy leather
Necklines
  1. A v-neck frames the face better than crew necks. Crew necks generally better for larger builds.
  2. Mock turtlenecks (halfway zips)
Addendum:
A good belt cleans up a look and ties it together.
Man-bags: Jack Spade, Kenneth Cole, Tumi,
Hair is the ultimate accessory, it frames your face.
Patterns: Stay away from bold, too-thick rugby stripes (overwhelms you) on shirts/polos and ties
Pinstripes: go for more subtle, overly aggressive/bold pinstripes look over-done/loud
TextureFiner knits are better to not overwhelm you, but can experiment with chunkier knits, braided detail on sweaters

Cologne top-sellers
  1. Acqua di Gio
  2. D&G Light Blue
  3. Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey
  4. Armani Code (aggressive)
  5. Polo Black (aggressive)
Bottom-line: Purge. Toss anything you find questionable. Just like bad relationships, obsolete software, don’t leave items around that just take up space.